Raspberry Pi & Custard

The Raspberry Pi is a fantastic new product that will hopefully bump start a whole wave of British engineers, both young and old! The cool thing (from my point of view) is the first batch at least won't have a case, therefore with the aid of a 3D printer you can have your own custom case design!

I have designed my "Custard" case which features an organic look! The dimensions are 70mm wide x 97mm long x 36mm high so it is really compact and comes in two pieces.






Drop me an email if you would like me to design your own case! I would need some sketches and a brief description of your design. I work at a rate of £45 an hour.

A scaled drawing can be found here so you can print it out and see how compact and clean the design is.


Robot 3D Printing

I have always been a sci fi nerd and especially a fan of anything "bot" related, Terminator 2, the cool Power Loader in Aliens 2 and the Ninja character in Metal Gear Solid are a few of my favourites. So when I was told by @pauldepree there was a Halo (the Microsoft game) themed competition to design an avatar character I knew exactly what to come up with! 

Some more info on the design of the CAD model can be found here on another blog post I wrote. This one is all about the 3D printed model (kindly made by Nick @3DPrintUK) and the process to paint it. The model was created on an Objet 3D printer by plotting a resin and curing it with UV light in small vertical steps slowly building up the 3D shape. I created the model in a CAD package called Solidworks and sent it off as a .STL file. 

These images show the model after it has been printed, it is white with a tint of yellow and because the model is not solid and has been shelled it is translucent. The build steps are also quite rough in the axis where the model has been made. A lot of the detail in the model is hard to see because of these factors but it doesn’t take long to restore them!
The first step is to prime the model, I used a fine quick drying Tamiya primer and you can see the rough surface finish of the model. The next step was to lightly sand the model with coarse to fine wet and dry sanding paper until the primer was almost gone and a smooth surface finish was left.
The image above on the right shows the arms almost complete with a nice smooth finish but the legs and back still require a bit more work. I think the model looks really cool in this condition as all the detail is visible and I recommend anyone getting a 3D print made to prime the model at least.

After the model was primed, the fun of painting could begin! I used Games Workshops blue acrylic paint to build up the base layer and a wash to bring the details out. It required a few coats to get a nice solid look and was finished off with dry brushing silver paint and applying some decals I had lying around to give it some scale. I am no modelling expert but I was really happy with the results and would love to do it again!